How To: Prune Roses

Pruning is important. Left to their own devices such vigorous plants as roses will grow too large and become leggy. Approaching a rose with secateurs, whether a shrub rose, climber, or rambler, at the right time will encourage a good shape and abundant flowers the following season. It is worth remembering not to be scared to cut back roses, they are tough and thrive on a decisive approach, especially since as well as retaining shape, much of the point of pruning is to avoid the rose being crowded and allow air to reach its centre. The pruned rose - reduced and devoid of leaves - can look alarmingly bare, but the result will be extremely rewarding. To avoid the risk of spore-borne disease, always clear up behind you as you work and dispose of the unwanted rose material in a green recycling bin, not in your own compost.

Before you start to prune, clean the blades with disinfectant to avoid inadvertently transferring disease. Alongside the tools, it is a good idea to have sturdy gloves and biodegradable jute ties or fixings to hand if working on a climber or rambler.

Deadheading is the simplest type of pruning and should be carried out throughout the summer on shrub roses and climbers. Removing spent blooms will stop the formation of seeds in rose hips which would take energy away from the rose and lessen the production of further blooms. This does not apply, however, if it is a variety grown for attractive hips such as Rosa rugosa or ramblers. Snip off each fading flower immediately above the nearest side shoot. If it is a multiple bunch of flowers, remove only the spent bloom at the end of its stalk and only cut back to the first shoot on the main stem once all the blooms are spent. Again, to avoid disease, clear up all the dead heads and dispose of them in a recycling green bin, not in your compost.

Any additional cutting back between the summer deadheading and the proper, late winter prune should be limited, but if there are any particularly long branches in a shrub rose that might catch in the wind and cause root rock (when the roots are damagingly loosened), it is advisable to reduce them to the height of the rest of the shrub.

It is hard to define exactly when to prune, depending on the severity of the winter, but it should be done at a point when the rose is showing the first signs of growth, normally in January or February; David Austin suggests you should have finished pruning by March. This is also a good time to fertilise the plant and put a mulch of compost around the base of the rose.

In its first year:

A newly planted shrub rose will need little intervention in its first year because it is concentrating on creating an efficient root system.

• Prune the stems back by 8-12cm (3-5in)
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Remove any remaining foliage and place it with all the bits of pruning in recycling

In its second year:

• Cut all stems back by a third
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Remove any remaining foliage and place it with all the bits of pruning in recycling

In its third year:

The rose will now be established so you can decide on the size you wish it to be (tall, medium or small), depending on variety and site, and prune it accordingly.

• Make a gauge of the size you want using a piece of bamboo which can be stuck into the ground by the base of the rose to act as a guide so that each stem can be cut to the same height
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Remove any remaining foliage and place it with all the bits of pruning in recycling

In its fourth year, and every following year:

• Follow guidance for year three.

If you inherit an established garden, it is not always easy to tell if you have a climbing or rambling rose. On the whole, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Generally speaking, climbers will repeat flower throughout the summer from a comparatively restrained framework. A rambling rose will usually flower once, with a mass of small roses making a dramatic show around June, it will have a larger, less restrained, more vigorous habit.

In its first year:

A newly planted climber will need little intervention in its first year because it is concentrating on creating an efficient root system.

• Cut back any stems that are growing away from the structural support
• If against a wall or fence, draw down any long stems and tie in at 45 degrees so the shoots will grow vertically along the stem
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Remove any remaining foliage and place it with all the bits of pruning in recycling

In its second year:

• Cut back any stems that are growing away from the structural support
• If against a wall or fence, again draw down any long stems and tie in (if against a wall or fence), at 45 degrees
• Cut back the flowering stems to about 15cm (6in) from the main stem
• If the climber is extremely vigorous remove less strong growth to avoid congestion
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Remove any remaining foliage and place it with all the bits of pruning in recycling

In its third year:

• Repeat the guidance for the second year and if necessary, cut away any weakened growth from the base.

In its fourth year, and every following year:

• Follow guidance for year three.

A rambling rose should always be planted with a great deal of space around it. They are not suitable for small or courtyard gardens. Once it is established it will need attention at the end of the flowering season, normally in July and then annually.

It is unnecessary to prune a new rambler, it will continue to flower without intervention for the first few years and the birds will eat the rosehips. There is no need to deadhead.

Once established:

• Cut side shoots back to four healthy shoots but avoid cutting right back to old wood or no flowers will be produced
• Cut back the flowering stems to about 15cm (6in) from the main stem
• Tie into the structure or support (normally wires) any branches that you wish to retain
• Remove less strong growth to avoid congestion
• Cut out any dead, diseased or damaged wood, as well as any crossing or weak stems
• Place all pieces of pruning in recycling
• In the autumn, take off any long whippy branches.